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    The Dragonfish revisited.

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    Tom(ADMIN)
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    Post  Tom(ADMIN) Sat Feb 23, 2013 6:24 pm

    Next problem, my son? Where did I put the brand new on/off switch for the radio? It arrived yesterday, I unpacked it and put it in the box where all the bits for this build are...went to get it earlier, and there it was...gone.

    Mr Murphy...enough is enough, where's my *&^%$ switch!
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    Post  tattooed Sun Feb 24, 2013 6:03 pm

    now now rich it's not like you to swear mate
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    Post  Tom(ADMIN) Sun Feb 24, 2013 6:52 pm

    All sorted now mate, found it lurking in the wrong box. My day's work has been to drill two holes, cut a slot and fit the radio on/off switch...just the push rod to bend up tomorrow, and that's that little job done.


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    Post  tattooed Sun Feb 24, 2013 6:57 pm

    nice and neat rich just like it should be keep it up mate
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    Post  Tom(ADMIN) Sun Feb 24, 2013 7:28 pm

    I'm enjoying it mate, going nice and steady at it, no rush.

    I keep looking at the Skipjack sitting there on the shelf, but I know my hands are not ready for it yet. What I'm doing with the Dragonfish can't be compared with the work needed on the Skipjack, but I'll get there.
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    Post  tattooed Sun Feb 24, 2013 8:05 pm

    the skipjacks not going anywhere mate so don't rush into it and your hands will get there in the end
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    Post  acrowot (Geof) Sun Feb 24, 2013 8:49 pm

    Im glad your enjoying building again its looking real tidy
    Sorry mate got another question for you I see you have got a micro gyro sub auto trim can you tell me more about it and would it help in my u boat I was going to link the front and rear hydroplanes together or would it be better to have them seperate
    Take your time with the skip jack
    All the best geof
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    Post  Tom(ADMIN) Mon Feb 25, 2013 7:53 am

    Thanks guys, for the kind words...much appreciated.

    Geoff, those MicroGyros levelers are marvellous little things, and ridiculously cheap. When I bought my Lafayette it didn't have a leveler, and it was a swine to control...I was recommended to fit one of Mike's levelers, which I did. Ten minutes later and the Laffy was a totally different animal...once set up, she would sail for ever and a day with an inch of periscope showing above water, just like the old Patrick Henry did.
    Have your front vanes controlled via the tx and let the leveler worry about the rear ones.

    Have a word with Mike, his number is on his website: www.microgyros.com you'll not regret it. And for less than £25 you can't go wrong.
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    Post  acrowot (Geof) Mon Feb 25, 2013 6:35 pm

    thanks richard i will get a sub leveler just got to work how to connect up the front hydroplanes to the WTC do i put the push rod out of the front or the back
    geof
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    Post  Tom(ADMIN) Mon Feb 25, 2013 6:58 pm

    I'd run the push rod through the front end cap with a quick release fastener Geoff, that makes for a nice straight run with very little chance of binding.
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    Post  acrowot (Geof) Tue Feb 26, 2013 4:11 pm

    thanks richard i will run the push rod through the front bulkhead.
    i was thinking about using magnets to join the push rods together i found some small ones just got to figure a way to attach it to the push rods should be easy plus it would be easyer to remove the WTC

    http://www.first4magnets.com/f340---4mm-dia-x-4mm-thick-n42-neodymium-magnet---05kg-pull-x25-a4y-124-p.asp

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    Post  Tom(ADMIN) Tue Feb 26, 2013 5:05 pm

    They are magic, them things...they will do the job, Geoff.
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    Post  Tom(ADMIN) Tue Feb 26, 2013 6:59 pm

    Just had a thought...could you sink the magnets in epoxy in a short length of plastic tube? That would secure them nicely and give you something to grip, maybe?
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    Post  acrowot (Geof) Tue Feb 26, 2013 7:20 pm

    just ordered them so hope to have them soon i was thinking of the same thing but in a brass tube with the push road solderd to it but thinking about i would be overkill so plastic could be better
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    Post  Tom(ADMIN) Wed Feb 27, 2013 5:52 pm

    Bit of a quiet day on the Dragonfish today, all I've done is to get the foam saddles in the hull where the wtc will sit.

    I've also spent a wasted half hour or so trying to buy a common or garden 4mm, 8" prop shaft with a 7" tube, threaded M4 one end and plain the other.

    I don't need fancy oilers or moulded on skegs, I don't need ball races, I just want a plain prop shaft and tube.

    In the end I gave up, a quick phone call to a certain Ron P...and a custom designed and built tube and shaft is in the lathe as I type this. How's that for service!
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    Post  david f Thu Feb 28, 2013 9:15 am

    Just thinking about your magnetic couplers, Richard. There was an article on these in the last or next to the last magazine issues, I think.

    David
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    Post  Tom(ADMIN) Thu Feb 28, 2013 11:16 am

    I believe you could be right, David...I'll take a look later on and see if there's anything that could be of use to Geoff. Our American cousins use them a lot, don't they? Propshaft connectors, push rod connectors...if it needs connecting, they will use magnets.
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    Post  acrowot (Geof) Thu Feb 28, 2013 12:47 pm

    thans guys ill have a look as well i thought i saw something some where
    i think ive got an idea with some 4mm gold battery connectors i use for my planes the magnet should fit inside and i will be able to solder the brass push rod to it no ploblem so once i get the magnets ill post up some pics
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    Post  salmon Thu Feb 28, 2013 8:51 pm

    I made magnet connectors for my Gato:
    The Dragonfish revisited. - Page 4 Quick_Disconnect_1_zps3e5f9340



    _________________
    If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.
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    Post  acrowot (Geof) Thu Feb 28, 2013 9:22 pm

    hi salmon they look very good a lot more professional than mine

    well i have got the magnets very powerfull so i have started by using a brass tube with 4mm internal diameter and about 8mm long and a brass rod that fits inside cut down to 4mm lenght with a hole drilled in the middle here comes question 1
    will a 2mm push rod be ok and seal onto the bellows with 1.5mm out let hole?

    i then will solder up the small brass tube brass rod with hole in it and push rod then glue in the magnet and here comes question 2
    what would be the best glue 24 hour araldite or cyno/super glue?

    i will post pictures once i have made a coupling and show how i did it
    i will have to make 2 to make a pair

    all the best geof
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    Post  Tom(ADMIN) Fri Mar 01, 2013 5:58 pm

    Very neat piece of work, Tom...that's giving me ideas.
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    Post  Tom(ADMIN) Mon Mar 04, 2013 7:52 am

    Just in case you're wondering why there's been nothing posted here for a while, I'm waiting on the rubber bellows and the prop shaft to turn up.

    And I've had, and still got, two very painful hands which resemble a pair of claws. Even holding a cup of coffee is very awkward, but hopefully things will improve and I can crack on.
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    Post  david f Mon Mar 04, 2013 8:42 am

    Sorry that your hands are in a bad way, Richard. Lovely morning up here with spring not far off. Maybe some warmer weather will help you.

    David
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    Post  Tom(ADMIN) Mon Mar 04, 2013 8:45 am

    Thanks David, much appreciated. The warmer weather will (and does) help a lot...maybe I should contemplate a move to somewhere exotic?
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    Post  troadus Fri Nov 08, 2013 8:49 pm

    salmon wrote:I made magnet connectors for my Gato:
    The Dragonfish revisited. - Page 4 Quick_Disconnect_1_zps3e5f9340

    Can you please tell me where you got your magnets from and did you drill the holes yourself. What size is the Rod and Tubing. I'm looking to make them myself, I like the way you did yours. Thank you

    Leon

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